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Visitors Guide to
the
Ulysses S. Grant
National Historic Site
(White Haven)
7400
Grant Road
Grantwood Village, MO
314-842-3298

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There are many sites in the United States that
commemorate or interpret Ulysses S. Grant, (1822-1885, 1843 photo left) a
famous Civil War general and the 18th president of the United States, and
the role that this historic 19th century American played in shaping the
country. Unlike other sites the Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site that
is commonly called White Haven looks at Grant from a different perspective.
White Haven encompasses nearly 10 acres of the 1,000-acre plantation that
was the childhood home of Julia Dent, the woman who Grant married in
1848. The exhibits and programs at White Haven are designed to introduce
visitors to Ulysses, Julia, and the people who lived at the plantation as
individuals and
present White Haven as a microcosm of the issues that faced the nation in the
mid 19th-century. The site also allows visitors to experience 19th-century
country life first hand.
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The White Haven
House
The land that White
Haven is on was originally part of a Spanish land grant along Gravois Creek southwest of St.
Louis given to Hugh Graham. By 1799 Graham had exchanged it with James
Mackay. Mackay was a Scottish fur trader who explored the Missouri River
for the Spanish government in 1797. Lewis and Clark consulted Mackay and used his maps on their
expedition seven years later. In 1808 Mackay sold a portion of the land
grant to his brother-in-law William Long.
Long began building the home now called White Haven in 1816. The original
portion of the two-story house is called the the "Long House" and
was built using A French Colonial style of construction that places logs
vertically in the ground as
opposed to the horizontal style favored by English settlers. This
style also features wide covered porches as a way to deal with the oppressive summer weather.
In 1818 Long decided to found the
town of Fenton along the Meramec River and sold the property and the
unfinished house to Theodore and Anne Lucas Hunt.
In the two years the
Hunts owned the house they added the two-room portion to the back of the
house, called the "Hunt Addition". In 1820, the Hunts
sold the home to "Colonel" Frederick Dent, a St. Louis attorney, businessman,
and father of Ulysses
S. Grant's West Point roommate. The Dent family rented a home in what is now downtown
St. Louis and used the Gravois Creek property as a summer home. The property
also gave Dent the opportunity to assume the role of a Southern gentleman
farmer.
By 1840 Dent had added the West Wing
addition and back porch. The East Wing addition, first-floor winter kitchen, and
mudroom were added by the Grants after the Civil War.
Many
visitors ask why the White Haven house
is painted green and not white. The reason is that Colonel
Dent named the property "White Haven" after his family's home in
Maryland and so the name has no relation to the color of the house. White
Haven is painted in the same color as it was when Ulysses and Julia lived
there in the 1850s and this particular shade of green was a popular choice at
the time. In addition to the main house, a stone summer
kitchen, an icehouse, a chicken house, and a horse stable are on the property.
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Grant and Julia's
Time at White Haven
Julia Boggs Dent (1826-1902, 1850s photo
left,) was the eldest daughter of the seven children
born to Colonel Dent. Julia spent much of her childhood on the White Haven
plantation. Julia was at boarding school in St. Louis when Ulysses S. Grant
first visited White Haven in the summer of 1843. Grant had just been assigned
to the Fourth U.S. Infantry at Jefferson Barracks, an important military
post located south of St.
Louis. Ulysses enjoyed visiting the Dent home where he debated
politics with the Colonel and went horseback riding with Dent’s youngest
daughters, Nellie and Emma. In February of 1843 Julia returned from school and Ulysses’
visits soon focused upon spending time with her. The following spring, when
Ulysses learned that his regiment was being reassigned to Louisiana, he
immediately rode out to White Haven to ask for Julia's hand in marriage. The
marriage was delayed until August 22, 1848, after Ulysses' return from the
Mexican-American War. In November of 1848 Julia left White Haven to
become an Army wife and lived on the army bases that Ulysses was posted to in
Michigan and New York. She did return to White Haven in May of 1850 to give
birth to the Grants' first child, Frederick Dent Grant. In 1852 Ulysses
was forced to leave his
family behind when he was transferred to California. Julia returned to White
Haven with young Frederick after giving birth to a second son, Ulysses S.
Grant, Jr. Ulysses found the separation from Julia and
his family too much to bear and in 1854 he resigned his commission and returned
to White Haven.
The Grants were
active in the management of the farming operation at White Haven. Colonel
Dent had given Ulysses and Julia 80 acres of the White Haven property when they
were married and in 1855 Grant built a four-room, two-story log cabin. This
acreage is north of the White Haven House in what is now St. Paul's
Churchyard Cemetery and a historical marker marks the location. The cabin
was completed in just three days and was facetiously called
"Hardscrabble" (meaning "yielding a bare or meager living
with great labor or difficulty") because the cabin was so crude and homely. Three months after the Grants moved into "Hardscrabble"
Julia's mother died and Colonel Dent asked the Grants to return to the main
house so Julia could help raise her younger sisters. The Grants were forced
to abandon the farm and move to St. Louis in 1858 due to depressed agricultural
prices, a June frost, and illness. During the Civil War Julia and the
children spent much of their time at White Haven with Grant visiting them
when on leave. In 1863 the Grants began
purchasing the White Haven property from Colonel Dent. After the war the Grants relocated to
Washington D.C. because of his military duties but they often returned to
White Haven for rest and relaxation.
During
Grant's presidency, he made preparations for retirement at White Haven.
Caretakers managed the farm by raising crops, constructing barns, and
breeding horses. Following his presidency Grant settled in New York City in
1881 where he formed a brokerage firm with Ulysses Jr. and Ferdinand Ward. It so
happened that Ward was a Ponzi scheme artist ahead of his time
and the firm collapsed in 1884. The Grant's lost ownership of White Haven when
it was used to pay off a
personal debt to railroad magnate William Henry Vanderbilt in 1884. When Vanderbilt
tried to return the home to him, Grant refused, insisting that he pay his
debt.
Grant died a year later in 1885 of throat cancer. Julia's last visit to
White Haven was in 1894 when she attended a social function held by Luther
Conn who had purchased the property in 1888. Julia spent her remaining years
in Washington D.C. where, supported by the sales of Ulysses' memoirs, living in comfort
as a "Grand Dame" until her
death in 1902.
Slavery at White
Haven
Many visitors to
White Haven are surprised to learn that the plantation made use of
slave labor during the time Grant lived here. Missouri was a slave state up
until the time of the Civil War and the areas along the Mississippi and
Missouri Rivers were known as "Little Dixie" because of the large
cotton plantations that made intensive use of slave labor. The
interpretation of slavery at White Haven and how Grant was influenced by his
experience here is an important part of the mission of this historic site.
When the Hunts
purchased the property from William Long in 1818 there existed “several
good log cabins” which provided potential quarters for their five slaves.
Colonel Dent considered himself a Southern gentleman and by the 1850s
eighteen slaves lived and worked at White Haven. Julia Dent recalled
childhood memories of slave children as her playmates. After returning home
from boarding school, Julia noted the transition of these children from playmate to servant.
During Grant’s management of the farm he worked side by side with Dan, one
of the slaves given to Julia at birth. Grant, who came from an abolitionist
family, often debated the slavery issue with the Colonel, an
ardent southern Democrat known for his support for secession over the issue
of slavery. A unique video of these debates can be seen during visits to the
main house.
In
1859, Grant freed William Jones, the only slave he is known to have owned.
During the Civil War, some slaves at White Haven simply walked off, as they
did on many plantations in both Union and Confederate states. A Missouri
constitutional convention abolished slavery in the state in January 1865,
freeing any slaves still living at White Haven.
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White
Haven as a National Historic Site
The last private owners of White Haven were the
Wenzlick family who acquired the central 15-acre portion of the property in
1913. In the 1980s the Wenzlick estate was trying to sell the property and
it was in jeopardy of becoming a housing development. To prevent this the Save Grant's White Haven, Inc. was formed in
1985 to preserve White Haven as a historical site. In 1986 St. Louis
County purchased White Haven and in 1989 the site was designated a
National Historic Landmark. In 1990 White Haven was turned over to the
National Park Service, which opened the site to the public the next year.
The
National Park Service has restored the White Haven house and several of the
historic structures on the property. Free Ranger led tours of the inside of
the historic home and its outbuildings are offered every half hour. The
horse stable holds both a refurbished stable area with period equipment and
a museum that interprets Ulysses and Julia's personal lives and family
relationships as well as Grant's historical legacy. The Visitor Center
has a classroom that doubles as an exhibit space for additional interpretive
exhibits, a gift shop, an information center, and a theater that shows a
movie called "White Haven: A Place to Call Home."
An accessible walking path that traverses the property has additional
interpretive signage that explains the significance of the property. Junior
Ranger programs are offered for children and the site hosts occasional special
events and exhibits. The "Hardscrabble" cabin is located across
the road at Grant's Farm, an animal park run by the Anheuser-Busch company.
Grant's Trail, an 8 mile long "rails to trails" flat bike and
jogging trail, runs past the property.
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Visiting the Ulysses
S. Grant National Historic Site
Visiting Hours
9 am to 5 pm daily
Closed Thanksgiving,
Christmas, and New Year's Day
Tours of the main
house begin at 9:30 am and every half hour after that
The last tour begins at 4:30 pm
There is no charge to visit to visit the the
Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site.

Location: From downtown St. Louis take I-44 west to the Elm
Avenue exit. Turn Take Elm Avenue south (left) to Pardee. Turn right and
follow Pardee (which will turn into Grant Road) and pass Grant's Farm until
you reach the historic site which will be on the left.
Learn more about the
St. Louis area.

Ulysses
S. Grant National Historic Site
- Use the official site of the Ulysses S.
Grant National Historic Site for answers to all
the questions you may have.
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